A Visit to Porto During COVID-19

As with everyone around the world, our travel plans were canceled due to the Coronavirus global pandemic. Our lofty objective of visiting over ten new countries in 2020 was seemingly impossible. At the end of April, we found ourselves desperate for a journey!

We wanted to be sure to pick somewhere we could travel safely and wisely, yet still, experience a new destination. After one of our brainstorming sessions and a batch (or three) of fresh margaritas, we constructed what just may be the ultimate road trip through Portugal, starting in Porto!

Fortunately, many countries, including our home country of Switzerland, quickly implemented rules and standards in mid-March to combat the spread of COVID-19. We are even more fortunate that the public listed and adhered to these standards, and as a result, our number of infections achieved manageable levels. Flights to and from Portugal restarted, and travel has resumed with a few rules!

Face masks are mandatory on Switzerland's public transportation, at the airports, and on the planes in transit. Upon arriving in Portugal, we quickly learned that masks are also required in stores, restaurants, and other enclosed areas. Once seated, you can remove masks, but as soon as your stand to move, masks are back on! Social distancing is still very much a thing! Was it worth it? Absolutely! Seeing a city like Porto with small crowds is incredible! So while it may not have been the usual touristic experience of Porto, we had no issues and quickly fell in love with Portugal!

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A Visit to Porto During COVID-19

Masks On! Bags Packed! It’s time to get out there!

Porto, or Oporto, dates back at least 2300 years, so as you can imagine, there's no shortage of exciting things to see and do in this northern Portugal city. Porto's center core is itself a UNESCO World Heritage site for "Historic Center of Porto, Luiz I Bridge, and Monastery of Serra do Pilar."

I was tasked with organizing an efficient but relaxed flow in 48 hours, and I must say, I think we experienced quite a bit! In comparison to many cities, Porto is quite small, so you can see and do a lot in a shorter amount of time. We were able to walk from our hotel to all sites without issue. If you find yourself tired from all the walking, the public transportation system is excellent, and the Ubers are affordable!

Porto is perfect for people watching, relaxing, exploring, and more. With famous regional foods, their popular canned sardines, and Port cellars, there are many things to see and do! This article should help you plot out your journey smoothly, with an excellent recommendation for a hotel and restaurants you won't want to miss!

Igreja do Carmo

Igreja do Carmo

The 18 by Igreja do Carmo

The 18 by Igreja do Carmo

Fonte dos Leões

Fonte dos Leões

The Douro riverbank

The Douro riverbank

What to See and Do

Here are just a few of the highlights of things to do and see in Porto!

We arrived in the morning hours, so we dropped off our packs and set off on foot. From the hotel, we walked in this flow as it was a loop south and back up! The next leg of our adventure will include Douro Valley, so we skipped Port tastings and tours in Porto. If you don't plan to visit the Douro, first, shame on you, second, seek out a tasting with Porto Wine Cellars.

Porto Cathedral

Located in the historic city center, you'll find one of the cities oldest buildings. This cathedral was built in stages, beginning in 1110 and reaching its primary structure in the 13th century. Pieces were added on through the years and finally completed in 1737.

The Dom Luis I Bridge

If you visit Porto and don't walk the Dom Luis I Bridge, you haven't SEEN Porto! This is one of the more iconic sights and for great reason. There are two paths, and upper and lower. The views from the upper are stunning, overlooking the Douro river. From the banks of the Douro, the bridge arcs high above the river, and it's lovely for photos!

Ribeira Square

Along side the Douro river, Ribeira Square is an active area where you can people watch and have a glass of wine while relaxing near the beautiful fountain and statue of St. John the Baptist. Built in the 1780s, this is the oldest square in the city of Porto and has always been one of the busiest areas because of trade. Today, St. John looks out over the travelers and diners along the square as a protector. It was built in medieval times yet has a different appeal and comes across as having a hippie, dreadlock appearance that we found quite different and quite interesting compared to more traditional sculptures in Italy or France.

Bolsa Palace

While we were unable to visit the palace on our first visit, it will be an absolute must next time! I love photographing the interiors of stunning rooms or grand halls. The Arab Room in the palace just may be the most beautiful in the city. If you're like me and plot out a course for the day, plan ahead and get tickets here.

Miradouro da Vitoria Scenic Overview

I used Google's My Maps to plot out my walking course and just had to include this beautiful overlook. It was a hot Portugal day at 36 C/97 F, but it felt a bit hotter after the walk up from the palace! It was more than worth it. The views over the rooftops in Porto were quite the reward!

Clérigos Tower

There are several ways to see beautiful views over Porto's rooftops, such as the Miradouro da Vitoria overlook. Clérigos Tower is the highest and positions you well above the surrounding rooftops for stunning panoramic views of the city. This belltower was constructed from 1732 to 1750 and is 75.6 m/248 feet in height. Climb the 240 steps for the small viewing deck, which I must warn, will be crowded in peak hours such as hours near sunset.

Livaria Lello

My literary followers will adore this bookstore as it's one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. It features a radiant interior with hardwoods, stained glass, and a majestic staircase. It's a little more complicated than some usual points of interest, but patience can pay off. Just down the street, you must purchase a ticket to enter the bookstore. If you do buy a book, that ticket cost will refund within your purchase.

Author, J.K. Rowling, used to frequent this bookstore, which has increased the bookstore's popularity. The Fonte dos Leões, in front of the neighboring school, is said to be Rowling's inspiration for the symbol for House Gryffindor. This fountain also resides just outside Universidade do Porto, where students adhere to strict dress codes of black suit, tie, and cape. Quite similar to the dress codes of Hogwarts.

Igreja do Carmo and Igreja dos Camelitas

I am quite fond of the beautiful churches in Europe and across the world, of all religions. These 'twin churches' are among some of my favorites! The classic azulejo tiles of Porto are beautifully incorporated into the side of Igreja do Carmo, and I fell in love with it from afar! Igreja dos Camelitas was built from 1616 to 1628, and Igreja do Carmo between 1756 and 1768. If you look closely, you'll see a door between the two churches. The two are separated by one of the world's narrowest homes. The home was built to make contact between the nuns and the monks impossible.

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Capucine e Luis Room

Capucine e Luis Room

Cocorico Restaurant and Bar

Cocorico Restaurant and Bar

Where To Stay

Cocorico Luxury GuestHouse

R. do Duque de Loulé nº 97, 4000-325 Porto, Portugal | Website

Our visit to Porto was brief, and when in a city with this much character and content, we knew we would spend little time at the hotel. We did, however, stumble upon an excellent hotel that was in the proximity of the things we wanted to see and do! At just over a hundred euros per night, we were able to stay in what we consider the perfect sort of hotel for a city! There's no sense in paying hundreds of euros for a place you will shower and sleep.

After a couple of days of walking, exploring, and of course, eating and drinking, Cocorico Luxury Guesthouse was more than we could have asked for, and would typically require a far higher rate in other cities! I somewhat anticipated a 'reason' for it being so affordable, yet it far exceeded our expectations. There is even an attached restaurant with a cozy back terrace where you can enjoy breakfast and coffee. Its boutique vibe was very much our style!

Roasted Octopus and Coriander Dressing / Polvo à lagarero e piso alentejano

Roasted Octopus and Coriander Dressing / Polvo à lagarero e piso alentejano

Cachorrinhos from Gazela

Cachorrinhos from Gazela

Pastéis de Nata from Manteigaria

Pastéis de Nata from Manteigaria

Franceshina from Lado B Café

Franceshina from Lado B Café

Where To Eat and Drink

Yes, it is as delicious as it appears. With its proximity to the Atlantic Ocean, menus across the city are full of seafood-based options. This was our target, but I had to sample some of the famous sandwiches!

Gazela Cachorrinhos da Batalha

Rua de Entreparedes N 8 10, 4000-434 Porto, Portugal | Website

After watching the Porto episode of No Reservations and seeing Anthony Bordain's reaction to the Cachorrinhos, this was a solid point of interest for my visit to Porto. It needs to be yours as well. This small must-have treat is not too filling and pairs perfectly with a small order of fries and a 33cl Super Bock! It's often referred to as a spicy "hot dog," but it has a sausage fattiness to it grilled crispiness that makes it unique. The bread is fresh, the cheese is melty, and has the perfect level of subtle spice. I can see why Bordain ordered a second one. So fantastic!

Manteigaria

Rua do Loreto 2, 1200-108 Lisboa, Portugal | Website

A visit to Porto is incomplete without a coffee (or Port) with Pastéis de Nata! One of the best places to experience this Portuguese egg tart pastry is at Manteigaria! Be sure to have it dusted with cinnamon! It elevates it beyond words. After walking several kilometers through the city, I was ready for something cold, but it was also perfect timing for an afternoon coffee! It was mean to be! Manteigaria offers an iced coffee that is unlike any I've had before! This family recipe was hot coffee poured over a slice of lemon into an iced glass with a bit of simple syrup! Or at least that's how I'll try to recreate it at home! Sweet, smooth, and fresh! The Pasteis de Nata was incredible! Warm baked pastry with creamy egg custard center. At just 1 euro each, it felt unfair paying only 7€ for two of the tarts and the two iced coffees!

Travesso

Rua da Picaria nº16, 4050-477 Porto, Portugal | Website

Before I even set foot through the door, Travesso greeted me with smells of grilled meats and vegetables! This is my kind of place! With its dark two-story layout with tiny lights illuminating the space from the walls, it screams cozy! Start your meal off with their fresh ceviche and a wine local the region. We have been craving ceviche for weeks, and it was absolute perfection. The octopus with potatoes was incredibly fresh and perfectly prepared on the grill! It is a large order and is perfect for sharing! Our evening here was unique. It was quiet from the impacts of COVID, so we had the top section to ourselves and were able to chat with our waitress, who was fun and informative! It was our first night and set the tone for fun we would have with residents in Portugal. Kind people can make such an impact on traveling!

ELEMENTO

Rua do Almada 51, 4050-036 Porto, Portugal | Website

As soon as I stepped through the doors, I had a feeling this was going to be incredible. Elemento 's interior is modern yet rustic. Everything is spotless, yet you stroll past a wood-burning kitchen on the way to your table. "Imagine how human beings did it primitively, without technology, without gas, without electricity, and only on element... Fire," states Chef and Owner, Ricardo Dias Ferreira.

Chef Ferreira executes an incredible menu and experience, which can be enjoyed ala carte or in the tasting menu. Our tasting menu included a delicious red prawn small course followed by a snapper course, well paired with an Art.Terra Curtimenta. The third course was an unbelievable wild drum in a red prawn broth, which included, for us, a new and exciting sea plant component! A 'snack' course of kingfish with parsley emulsion cured in citrus followed! Our meal is only getting better and better!

We then transitioned to a Nelson Neves Merlot, which is rare in the Portuguese grape crop but spoke to Elemento's eclectic nature. The wine paired perfectly with the best duck breast either of us has ever experienced. The food courses, at this point, seemingly endless, and the wine continuously flowing. My notes on this meal got shorter and shorter, and the misspellings more frequent! One thing was for sure, "OMG Delish Oxtail! Absolutely delicious" was bold. It was that good! This is my kind of dish anyhow, but it was incredible. I just had one request initially, and that was to substitute the Charred Peach Tart as my dessert, and I'm thrilled that I did. It transitioned perfectly fro the Oxtail dish and paired with a 20 year Tawny Port. Everything about this meal was perfection. Better than many Michelin star restaurants we've experienced. The cost was also 1/3 of what those meals would have been or less!

Lado B Café

Praça dos Poveiros 130, 4000-393 Porto, Portugal | Website

Daniel da Silva invented the Franceshina after spending time in France. His inspiration drew from the famed French counterpart, the croque-monsieur. It's safe to say Daniel stepped it up a notch and adapted it to the Portuguese style and ingredients! This famous sandwich consists of toasted bread, ham, linguiça, sliced roasted meat or steak, and often sauce. The sandwich is then draped in cheese, melted, and topped with the optional egg. Finally, the hot tomato and beer sauce tops the sandwich! If you think it sounds a bit heavy, you'd be right. It's easily manageable by one hungry person, though without issue. Like the others, you guessed it, enjoy with a nice cold Super Bock!

Casa Guedes

R. de Passos Manuel 190, 4000-382 Porto, Portugal | Website

If you just can't handle the hefty francesinha, head to Casa Guedes for sandes de pernil. This is a simple but lovingly roasted pork sandwich that many top with the sheeps millk cheese from Serra da Estrela. Some claim this to be the best sandwich in Port and possibly Portugal. It's a simple but delicious sandwich that also pairs perfectly with a cold Super Bock!

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The Dom Luis I Bridge

The Dom Luis I Bridge

Ribeira Square

Ribeira Square

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Miradouro da Vitoria Scenic Overview

Miradouro da Vitoria Scenic Overview

Clérigos Tower

Clérigos Tower

Fonte dos Leões

Fonte dos Leões

Travesso Restaurant

Travesso Restaurant

Portuguese Ceviche at Travesso

Portuguese Ceviche at Travesso

Roasted Octopus and Coriander Dressing at Travesso

Roasted Octopus and Coriander Dressing at Travesso

Port Sampling at Travesso

Port Sampling at Travesso

Igreja do Carmo and Fonte dos Leões

Igreja do Carmo and Fonte dos Leões

Igreja dos Camelitas and Igreja do Carmo

Igreja dos Camelitas and Igreja do Carmo

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Livaria Lello

Livaria Lello

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Igreja Santo Ildefonso

Igreja Santo Ildefonso

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Sandes de Pernil at …

Sandes de Pernil at …

… Casa Guedes

… Casa Guedes

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Casa Oriental Gourmet Canned sardines and more

Casa Oriental Gourmet Canned sardines and more

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ELEMENTO

ELEMENTO

ELEMENTO Menu

ELEMENTO Menu

‘Peach Pie’

‘Peach Pie’

Wild Drum Fish

Wild Drum Fish

Ox Tenderloin and Babaganuche

Ox Tenderloin and Babaganuche

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I'm a US expat, blogging photographer and world-traveler who may or may not like tequila a bit too much.